Located in Basel, Switzerland, Volkshaus is a unique establishment that combines a theater and restaurant in one magnificent dining room.
Basel is strategically situated on the banks of the Rhine, in the northern region of Switzerland. Its prime location allows visitors to easily access neighboring countries such as France and Germany, just a short distance away.
Located in Basel, Switzerland, Volkshaus offers a unique dining experience within a theater and restaurant complex. The dining room at Volkshaus provides a cozy ambiance for guests to enjoy their meals.
Basel is situated in the northern part of Switzerland, along the Rhine River. Its strategic location allows easy access to both France and Germany, making it a convenient destination for travelers who want to explore multiple countries in one trip.
A bar at Volkshaus.
Across the Rhine from there, Bernadette Koch sits in her fashion boutique.
Schwarz Modes has been selling its handmade straw hats for over a century.
One of the hats on display at the store.
Slightly above that location lies the Pharmacy Museum, showcasing a wide range of objects spanning from old medicine jars to ancient instruments used in surgery.
A historic Fernet-Branca distillery, located near the border of France, has been beautifully transformed into a captivating exhibition area.
Feast your eyes on the intricate details of the Fondation Fernet-Branca's stunning exterior. Its unique architecture calls attention to the rich artistic heritage and contemporary flair that Basel, Switzerland embodies. Immerse yourself in the cultural wonders of this vibrant city, even when the international Art Basel fair is not in full swing (June 19 to 22 this year).
Indulge your senses in the numerous museums, each offering a diverse collection of masterpieces. Explore the world-class architectural marvels, extraordinary bars, and refined restaurants that dot the cityscape. With its strategic location in the Dreiländereck, or "three-country region," Basel provides easy access to both France and Germany, making it an ideal starting point for cross-border adventures.
Arriving at Basel's airport, situated on French soil, allows you to seamlessly transition into Swiss culture. Take advantage of the efficient public transportation links to explore the enchanting German suburb of Weil am Rhein. While Basel's charming old town features timbered houses dating back to the 13th century, the city has continuously evolved to embrace new attractions that have blossomed in recent years.
FRIDAY
1. Worldly Design | 4 p.m.
From their main office in Basel, the architectural team of Herzog & de Meuron has influenced the look of cities like London (with Tate Modern), San Francisco (the de Young Museum) and Munich (the Allianz Arena). Not far from Basel’s soaring Münster church, the Museum of Cultures contains impressive exhibitions on topics like the civilization of the Amazon and the golden age of exploration, as well as a new layout and entrance courtesy of the celebrated architectural team’s extensive 2010 renovation. Another reason to visit at the end of the day on Friday: the 16 Swiss-franc admission (about $17 at $1.08 to the Swiss franc) is reduced substantially for the last hour, from 4 p.m.
2. Boutique Buys | 5 p.m.
Basel’s best boutiques have long been found on Spalenberg, close to the university, where one of the typical residents, Schwarz Modes, has been selling its handmade straw hats for over a century. But in recent years, unusual new shops have branched out to the up-and-coming area along St. Johanns-Vorstadt, a short walk away, where the fabric designer Fabia Zindel opened her funky Matrix boutique in 2010. Ms. Zindel’s multicolored geometric-patterned scarves of hand-printed silk, cotton and wool cost between 100 and 350 Swiss francs. Pair one with the modern men’s and women’s fashions by Bernadette Koch, whose cool boutique stands just across the street.
3. Artful Cuisine | 8 p.m.
Considering Basel’s tiny area and oversize footprint in terms of art, you sometimes can’t go 10 steps without bumping into a gallery, museum or atelier. Right on St. Johanns-Vorstadt, the recently renovated Ackermannshof complex served for many years as the studio of the Fluxus artist Dieter Roth. Today, it is home to a publishing house, offices and the two-year-old Ackermannshof restaurant, where the most striking artwork must be the 13th-century building’s original Renaissance-era painted ceiling beams and wall frescoes. Frequently changing menus include dishes like breast of black foot chicken from Burgundy in morel sauce, and dry-aged Swiss pork in sherry sauce with black rice, backed up by excellent French and Spanish wines. Dinner for two without wine: about 150 francs.
4. Garage Music | 11:30 p.m.
Giving new purpose to old buildings is a common theme in Basel, where one of the best clubs for deep house and electronic music is Garage, a former auto garage on a quiet street near the zoo. Though the dance floor is limited, when visiting D.J.'s like Germany’s Peer Kusiv start playing their late-night sets after the club opens at 11 p.m., the atmosphere more than makes up for any lack of space.
Exploring Basel's Unique Attractions
5. A Treasure Trove Awaits | 10 a.m.
Kickstart your Saturday with a treasure hunt amidst the stalls of Basel's largest flea market, located under the sheltering trees of Petersplatz, just off Petersgraben street. Delve into a world of vintage fashion, second-hand books, and curious knick-knacks. Uncover a piece of history and perhaps even stumble upon a hidden gem.
Once you've satisfied your craving for antiques and oddities, make your way to the captivating Pharmacy Museum nearby. Marvel at the oddity-filled collection, featuring antique medicine jars, ancient surgical tools, and relics of unconventional remedies. Discover intriguing curiosities like dried fox tongue, once believed to ease asthma, and snake skins purported to relieve toothache.
6. A Feast for the Senses | Noon
Indulge in a truly sensory experience at the renowned Cheval Blanc restaurant. While it's customary to save extravagance for dinner, you won't want to miss the breathtaking daylight views from its riverside terrace overlooking the Rhine. Allow yourself to be captivated not only by the panorama but also by Chef Peter Knogl's culinary artistry.
Embrace the explosion of flavors as you savor dishes crafted with meticulous attention to detail. Pair a vibrant beet macaroon, doused in neon pink, with a peppery wasabi mayonnaise. Alternatively, relish the striking combination of a Granny Smith purée, radiating nuclear green, topped with delicate shavings of foie gras. This exceptional gastronomic experience, complemented by impeccable service, may lead you to expect an exorbitant bill. However, you'll be pleasantly surprised to find the current three-course "business lunch" priced at just 88 francs, excluding wine.
7. Crossing Borders | 2 p.m.
Not everything worth seeing in Basel is actually in Switzerland. From the Schifflände stop, take bus No. 604 to the Carrefour stop in the sleepy French town of St.-Louis, just across the border, where an old Fernet-Branca distillery has been turned into a sprawling exhibition space for contemporary art, the Fondation Fernet-Branca. If you want to buy a ticket from the bus driver, you’ll need euros, not francs. Alternatively, get a ticket from a Swiss vending machine before you board. The current exhibition, running until March 23, features a wide-ranging collection of over 60 artists, including Cy Twombly and Josef Sudek.
8. Small City | 4 p.m.
Though Basel’s old town holds many tourist attractions, much of modern life centers on Kleinbasel, the “small” section of the city across the river from the old town, just north of the Rhine. After checking out the Saturday shopping at bustling Claraplatz, cool off in the private courtyard of the Volkshaus, a theater and restaurant complex from 1925 that was stylishly renovated in 2012. To make like a local, order a panaché, a refreshing mixture of lager and lemon soda, but be sure to pronounce it as a “panasch.” Everyone else does.
9. Exclusive Collectibles, Exclusive Carry-Ons | 5 p.m.
Stylish Kleinbasel is adorned with several unique boutique businesses that have recently collaborated to form an alliance, REH4. Obtain their complimentary neighborhood map, which you can acquire from an outlet called Marinsel, here: reh4.ch. The store Marinsel offers exclusive bags made by Qwstion, as well as adorable infant clothing by What I Like – both are native swiss enterprises. Subsequently, take a leisurely stroll to Plattfon and Stampa, where one-of-a-kind albums, intriguing posters and obscure musical literature can be found.
10. Dinner at the Gilded Cask | 7 p.m.
Despite its archaic name - Zum Goldenen Fass, which translates to At the Golden Barrel, this trendy diner and pub in Kleinbasel is famous for its outstanding and innovative culinary fare. Menu options, although not extensive, include delicacies like veal fillet suffused with smoke trout, and sea bass accompanied by salsa verde. Local adventurous eaters often endorse the versatile, multi-course surprise menus. Expect to spend around 100 francs for a meal for two excluding wines.
11. A Lengthy Crawl | 10 p.m.
Kleinbasel has enough edgy bars for a lengthy crawl. Start out at the year-old Ladybar, a former erotic club — though the dancing poles are still in place, the current performances are by artists, writers and indie-rock bands. Half a block up, the quiet, introspective Agora draws in a conversational crowd, thanks to a no-live-music policy. Closer to the Mittlere Brücke bridge, the tiny Concierge Bar boasts just a half-dozen tables, bottles of obscure grappa and schnapps, and its own online arts magazine. Stop for a rest on the comfy couches at the hunting-themed Jägerhalle, staring at the framed paintings on the ceiling or entering one of the bar’s occasional table tennis tournaments. Finally, finish things off right where you started: the upstairs “Sääli” hall at Zum Goldenen Fass, one of Kleinbasel’s coolest places for experimental live music, bring-your-own-vinyl dance parties and theatrical performances.
SUNDAY
12. Cultural Brunch | 10 a.m.
Much of Basel is closed on Sunday — other than churches, of course. But an artsy crowd assembles for services of another order at the intimate Zum Kuss, a former cemetery chapel rebuilt as a trendy cafe in 2011. At the edge of a shady park, Zum Kuss — also known as Totehüüsli, akin to “Little Death House” — serves a Sunday “cultural brunch” from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., with plenty of Sunday newspapers and a “Hangover Breakfast” for 17 francs. Don’t be put off by the Totenbeinli. Although the name means “dead legs,” it’s just a hazelnut cookie.
13. Design Infusion | 2 p.m.
What’s the source of Basel’s impressive sense of design? It might just be America, by way of Germany. Just across the border in the German suburb of Weil am Rhein, large bequests from American designers like George Nelson and Charles and Ray Eames form part of the influential Vitra Design Museum, which opened its stunning gallery space in 2011. On Sunday, buses go about once an hour from Basel’s Claraplatz to the Vitra stop. For timetables, check bvb.ch.
THE DETAILS
1. Museum of Cultures, Münsterplatz 20; mkb.ch.
2. Schwarz Modes, Spalenberg 23; schwarz-modes.ch. Matrix, St. Johanns-Vorstadt 38; matrixdesign.ch. Bernadette Koch, St. Johanns-Vorstadt 23; bernadettekoch.ch.
3. Ackermannshof, St. Johanns-Vorstadt 21; ackermannshof-restaurant.ch.
4. Garage, Binningerstrasse 14; garagebasel.com.
5. Flea market, Petersplatz. Pharmacy Museum, Totengässlein 3; pharmaziemuseum.unibas.ch.
6. Cheval Blanc, Blumenrain 8; lestroisrois.com.
7. Fondation Fernet-Branca, 2, rue du Ballon, St.-Louis, France; fondationfernet-branca.org.
8. Volkshaus, Rebgasse 12-14; volkshaus-basel.ch.
9. Marinsel, Feldbergstrasse 10; marinsel.ch. Plattfon and Stampa, Feldbergstrasse 48; plattfon.ch.
10. Zum Goldenen Fass, Hammerstrasse 108; goldenes-fass.ch.
11. Ladybar, Feldbergstrasse 47; ladybar.fm. Agora, Feldbergstrasse 51; cafebaragora.org. Concierge Bar, Utengasse 28; concierge-bar.ch. Jägerhalle, Erlenstrasse 59; jaegerhalle.bs. Zum Goldenen Fass, Hammerstrasse 108, goldenes-fass.ch.
12. Zum Kuss, Elisabethenstrasse 59; zumkuss.ch.
13. Vitra Design Museum, Charles-Eames-Strasse 2, Weil am Rhein, Germany; design-museum.de.
LODGING
Conveniently located between the main train station and Basel’s old town, the Radisson Blu (Steinentorstrasse 25; 41-61-227-2727; radissonblu.com/hotel-basel) has 206 recently updated rooms, as well as a pool, fitness center and free Internet connections. In January, a web search found doubles starting at 160 francs ($180).
For those interested in more entertainment options during their stay, a list of top casino hotels in Switzerland (https://www.top-hotels-switzerland.com/en/theme/casino-hotels-7/) provide an element of excitement to compliment a comfortable stay.
Home to the excellent Cheval Blanc restaurant, the Trois Rois Hotel (Blumenrain 8; 41-61-260-5050; lestroisrois.com) has a commanding position overlooking the Rhine. In January, a web search found doubles starting at 500 francs.